Kumar...Yes..Yes..Yes...

Today was the led practice. You have to get there early or you won't get a spot in the main room. There were a few people practicing in the bathroom and the lobby today. My friend Katie practiced in the lobby but said it was nice because there was more breathing room. I think she could practice anywhere. Her practice is more than amazing. It's like she goes into a trance when she begins her practice and just flows from one pose to the next. She is so beautiful to watch. Sharath was counting fast today. It was more of the speed I like. It's funny because as you are waiting you can hear him teaching the class before and you can see how fast he is counting on that particular day. I can't lie..I was a little happy about his faster paced counting this morning.




Susie and I walked to Loyal World tonight and shopped the little mall area. I picked up some soap and Tiger Balm for my mosquito bites. Tiger Balm here is only 37R...That's under a $1. On the way home we were stalked by some guy on the street. He came up to us and began making conversation. A lot of Indians do this to westerners. They just come up and ask your name and start telling you about themselves. It's really not that odd here. We talked for a few minutes and he began begging us to have coffee with him. I told him it was too late and we were tired. So next thing you know he puts his arm in mine and starts walking with us down the street. it was funny at first but got old quick. Men here and in Asia will walk holding hands or with their arms around each other. It's a friend thing not anything else. We kept telling him we were going now and it was nice meeting him. Finally he got a little too needy and we pushed him off firmly but nice and we walked away. The Indian people will generally not start a fuss. They will get the hint most times and just walk away. They mean no harm really. Mysore is very safe and the people are very kind and gentle.


There is a rikshaw driver named Kumar that is really funny. He always pops out at the oddest times. It's kind of like a MAD TV or SNL skit. I was walking home from the shala one morning and here comes Kumar....Sir...Sir...You need ride...Yes...yes...yes...I give you ride...(note he is doing the Indian head bobble here from side to side <---> and sporting a creepy grin). Susie and I are in the market one day and all of a sudden...hewo...Sir...Madaam....It's me... Kumar...You...you need ride...Yes...yes...yes..... We walk out from breakfast on any random morning and here comes Kumar...Hewo...Sir....Madaam....you...you look tired ...you need ride..Sir...It's me Kumar...you remember me...yes..yes..yes...I told Susie I'm waiting for the morning I walk into my bathroom and see Kumar..Sir...Sir...you...you need wipe...Yes..yes..yes...It's me Kumar.... remember me...yes..yes..yes...Do you need wipe...Yes...yes..yes...He is harmless and it's so funny. Actually, he does use the meter with us which is better than a lot of the rikshaw drivers. A large number of rikshaw drivers will try to get you to pay them 50R for any trip...This is way too much...A lot of times the ride is only around 35R to 40R. I round up and usually give them a few rupees for a tip.


Tomorrow our day off so we are going to rest. We might go into the market or Sapna our favorite bookstore in the afternoon. I'm going to make soup one night so I want to pick up some veggies. One Saturday we are going to the Tibeten temple a few hours from here to see the monks. I think there is another one in town because we always see monks at the bookstore and the market. I love Hinduism and can relate to it in so many ways but there is something about Buddhism that always calls my heart home so I am looking forward to going to the temple... We are well, healthy, and happy here in Mysore.... Good night and sweet dreams...


Om Om Om

The Dancing Man

This mornings practice was good and intense. I woke up very sore because I'm really working my muscles and tendons to their max. Ashtanga Yoga burns probably the most calories of any yoga style. Not only during your practice but after your practice as well. It was designed not only to get your body in tip top shape but for your mind as well. It is a real way of life as I am learning. I am doing much better in Utthita Hasta Padangushtasana. I am on day two of Marichyasana A and with help I can almost bind in the left direction. Today Sharath told me to lay of the bread and only eat once a day. I'm not sure how I feel about that yet. My weight is going down because none of my clothes fit and I feel lighter. He laughed as he said it so maybe he was just making humor. Either way I was thrilled with this mornings practice regardless of my sore muscles. I feel so open here.


Susie made lunch for Vonya and Elaine and I around 1:30pm. We had pasta and veggies with tomato sauce. We needed some home cooking in a bad way. It was so good. I don't even like pasta all that much but it was so full of taste. It was filled with eggplant, broccoli, peppers, onions,garlic, zuchinni, and fresh herbs. Just what we needed.


We went to the market in the city and found the dancing man. This is a guy who walks around and dances to a boom box in the market. Susie and I started dancing with him and we just boogied away. People from all over the market were coming and standing around and watching. When we were done the put flower lays over Susie and my head and yelled and clapped. The Indian people are so fun and full of love and kindness.


We walked to our new favorite bookstore.. Sapna... and than flagged a Rikshaw home. On the way the ladies were hungry so we stopped at Nalpack...It's an Indian type McDonalds where you can get great Indian food really cheap. I didn't eat...remember one meal a day... and the ladies got Masala Dosa, Neer Dosa, Mangalore Banjji, Masala Puri, two 7-Up's and two lime soda's. Only 145R which is about $5 American dollars. It is unbelievable.


I did laundry when we got home and put it in the dryer (hang on the roof) and now I'm getting ready for bed. We have led in the morning so we will have to get up before 5am. I love the led because Sharath walks around and teaches while Saraswatti adjusts. We are off from yoga on Saturday and I have no idea what we are going to do. Good nite...Sweet dreams..and when I say this I mean it....Don't let the bed bugs bite...


Om Shanti Shanti...

Birthday's and Crazy Guys With Knives

Today practice went pretty well. I must say I have cramps like you wouldn't believe. The diareah has slowed down a little but my stomach is in rare form. I'm laying off the cipro for now. I'm trying a water fast to clean out my system. I'm aloud to have ginger and lemon in my water but that is about all. I ate too soon today and what I should have done is continued to fast for a full 24 hours. Practice was really good and I was given Marichyasana A today. Sharath tried to pull my hands together in the bind but I'm not quite there yet. I was more focused on not blowing his head off if he got too close behind me. My Mulabanda is a little out of shape after the last few days. His son came in today as well and walked around and called out the numbers in sanskrit. He is so cute. Everyone is so serious and when Sharath's little boy walks in it reminds us all that it's just yoga. I wish I could record this. Johnna you would love it. I think of you everytime Sharath's little boy yells finish or counts in sanskrit. I can hear your laugh all the way here in Mysore.


After Practice I had some poridge and met the gang at the coconut stand. I was not paying much attention but there was an older guy that ended up being a begger rubbing my arm and asking if he could take my picture. I just smiled and tried to ignore him.... People on the street stop me all the time here and ask if they can touch my tattoo. It is facinating to them. They think it is just paint.....The elderly begger began to get quite persistant but I decided to continue to ignore him. Other yogi's on the bench were telling him to go away and even Guru (owner of the coconut stand) tried to chase him off. Susie walks over to me and says...Boo..did you know he has a knife..Turns out the guy was crazy and no one knew if he was going to hurt someone. I still think he was just making conversation myself. Either way Guru finally ran him off with a bigger knife and called the Indian police. Poor guy.. I feel for him..


It was my friend Elaine's birthday today and we went to Sanja's to eat a late lunch. You call ahead at Sanja's and she makes you a big lunch out of her kitchen and they bring it out to your table. It is so good. We had so much food. I wish I could tell you what it was but I really don't know. I'll post a picture. Elaine payed for all of our lunch behind our back. She told us it was her Birthday and she wanted to treat us. She is one of the sweetest people I have met here. Such a nice and caring person. We tried to pay her back but it didn't work. After lunch Susie, Elaine, Vonya, and I went to get milk shakes at Barista a coffee place right up the street in Gokulam. It wasn't a Chick-Filet milkshake but it was good. I wouldn't go back to this place though it is very over priced and a little posh for my liking. It is best to just get ice cream from the boy right out side of Nigilri's up from the coconut stand. He sits with his freezer right by the steps and most of the ice cream is 20R which is about 50 cents.


Tomorrow is the last Mysore practice for the week and Friday we have led. I like the led because the energy is pretty intense. I stop at Marichyasana A of course and than jump back in at back bends. I'm still home sick today but I'll stay busy tomorrow. I really wish I could share more with you guys but I can't put everything in words. Good night....Sweet dreams..


oM oM oM

Nothing Exciting....

This morning I woke up to the rumble in my bowels only to feed Seymore clear water. In Yoga terms I think that is good. Yoga is designed to clean all of the toxins out of your system. I had some cramping going on too but I can't miss practice under any circumstances. Today I was completly empty because I didn't eat after 1pm yesterday so my forward bends and Janushirshasana were much easier. During Utthita Hasta Padangushtasana Saraswatti came over to adjust me and pulled my leg straight out in front of me. I didn't even have time to think about it. As I was standing there in the full pose she looked over at Sharat and motioned at him with her head and smiled. He looked over at me and grinned really big. I still don't understand why they like me so much but I'm not complaining. Saraswati helped me in the left direction and than I moved onto Ardha Baddha Padmottanasana. When I was done with Janushirshasana C Sharath came over to me and said..."Tomorrow..Marichyasana A...I don't even know how that is going to happen but we will just throw it to faith in the method. You cannot get a new posture on Tuesdays and I'm not sure why this is but it is tradition.


I went to the book store SAPNA in town about a block from the market. It is 3 stories high and the closest thing to Barnes and Noble here in Mysore City. I love it there. Susie, Vonya, and I spent about 2 hours there and than ran into one of our yoga friends Dewa. Dewa is from Australia and also studied at the Behar University of Yoga. We were getting hungry so we went down the street to Ashakya which is a place in a posh hotel by the market place that serves tali for only 46R. That's exactly one American dollar. A tali is a huge plate of food with different little dishes. It is kind of like a buffett on a plate. You can get a refill of any of the dishes as many times as you like. It is so good. I don't know how I'm going to survive with out good Indian food when I get back to the states. I'm so spoiled here. Oh and by the way...I won't come home smelling like curry..here the food is pure and organic and fresh..It is made with love and care and intention...I don't know why people think if you eat Indian food you smell like curry. In fact I have lost all of my smell all together because of my practice. I detox every morning.


I came home early because of my cramps and I am now taking it easy. I'm going to rest and drink a couple liters of water and go to bed early. I will be like new in the morning. I am always excited about my morning practice. I am a little home sick but I will survive. I'm already planning my trip for next year. This place is amazing. You can't even begin to understand by reading about it or even through pictures. India changes people in a way in which I wasn't expecting. It has made me really see so much I was closed off from. I love this country and it's people. If it wasn't for my family being so far away I don't think I would ever leave. I could stay here forever. It is the most beautiful place I have ever experienced.

Seymore the Hungry Hungry Toilet

So today is the first day I have had full blown bowel opening diareah. You may think you have had diareah before but you haven't had real diareah until you have had Mysore style diareah. We named our toilet Seymore and he loves to eat turds. He has had his fill the last few days. He even gargles when you shoot him his grub. Sometimes he gargles before you finish feeding him his breakfast, lunch, or dinner. He is such a good toilet he is. Good ole Seymore. Sometimes I hear him singing ...feed me...feed me all night long. The good news is if his feedings get too messy there is a shower directly across from him so you can rinse him off when the turding gets rough.


This morning in practice Sharath gave me Janushirshasana C to work on. I can't get the foot turned in the correct manner but it's a process. I'm guessing he wants me to get to Marichyasana A so he can start helping me open up. I usually get there in a led practice but have to stop at Marichyasana A because of my binding ability or rather lack of. It will come. I noticed I am getting stronger in my warm up but my knees are feeling a little preasure because of Janushirshasana B. I'm hoping they will get used to the bending. I'm going very slow so no worries. I have at least another 50 or 60 years to get this or at least 1000 life times...hahaha...


After I practiced I went to feed Seymore his breakfast and take a shower. When I finished showering I went to breakfast at Anokhi's Garden Cafe and met Vonya. We chatted and decided to take today easy because of my friend Reah and his cousin Da Cramps. We went to MYSTORE a local grocery store and I was amazed that certain items in India were so cheap. In India teeth aren't majorly important like in the West. Of course they try not to get cavities and prevent oral disease but white and straight teeth are an American thing. I was amazed that an Oral B tooth brush in any style is about 28Rto 40R. That's under a dollar in the US. They are the same current styles you can buy in America for $3 to $5. I'm buying some to bring home. If I come back once a year I won't buy a tooth brush in America ever again. Shame on you Oral B. They are robbing us blind. Tooth paste is the same way. A tube of Colgate is about 35R.


As I sat in the afternoon it saddened me to see a calf that had lost his mother screaming as it stumbled down the street. You see the cows with calves have milk so the Indians will pull them off the street to milk the mother. Sometimes the calf wanders off so it causes a bit of stress for the mother and calf until they are reunited. It is a heart breaking scream. About an hour later the mother was walking past screaming for her small calf. It is very sad but they will end up hopefully finding each other. I am not pure vegetarian because I occasionally eat a piece of meat but after seeing the things I have seen on this trip I have no desire to eat it when I return to the states. It is not only enviromentally more productive to be a vegetarian but when you see the personalities of the animals here it makes you more aware of the animals you have eaten. They have souls and personalities too. A mother cow in America feels the same pain in her heart when her calf is sent off to be butchered for consumption. I would never judge a person for choosing to eat meat but for me it seems to be the right choice not to eat it after seeing part of the real world out side of the US.


Susie and I walked to Loyal World tonight around 5pm to get my mind off food. I'm fasting till my diareah goes away. Water and lime for me for about the next 24 hours. Loyal World is like the Indian Wal-Mart. It is about a mile and a half walk from our flat. We walk about 5 to 6 miles a day so that is an easy little doddle. As we passed the Gokulam coconut stand two beggers no older than 7 or 8 proceeded to want us to give them money for food. These little buggers were more persistant than usual. My wallet was safe and all I had on me was my bag so we paid them little attention. As we walked pass the temple the little boy jumped on me and wouldn't let go. After a week of trained monkeys trying to steal my wallet and rikshaw run aways I found the humor in this. All you can do is smile and laugh. They continued to play attach to the leg as we kept walking so I figured I could at least get a few pictures. As soon as you bring your camera out they want their picture taken. Than they want to take your picture. Not a good idea unless you want to practice detachment. So I got some funny pictures of Susie and me walking down the street of Mysore with children attached. They finally went away after about 500 yards. The Indian people are not violent and don't understand pushing and shoving them away. The best way to deal with this is to just pretend they are not there. It gets hard because they will tail you for a long bit but if you just continue to pay attention to your belongings and keep walking they get bored and move on. Even the people begging are good people they are just hungry. You can see a sparkle in their eyes when they know you have noticed them. In the end you end up with a few good pictures so it all works out for you.


Tomorrow is week two day two. I am seeing a difference in my practice and loving every minute of my journey. I am always so grateful for the experience and ability to do this. Every night I still think to my self that I can't believe I'm really doing this. It seems like my life is a movie at the present. I think about how cold it is back in the states and how warm it is here. I don't miss the 20 degree weather at all. Good night and sweet dreams dearest Mysore my teacher and my true love.

oM... oM... oM...

The pushy asana

This morning was a led practice starting at 6am. I was up at 5am so I could have a bit of water and wake up before practice. It is kind of funny though. When you get to the shala you see a bunch of yogi's sitting on the steps ready to go in. You have to get there at around 5:30am or you will end up practicing in the bathroom or lobby on a led day. When the doors open the yogi's become the most selfless and giving people you have ever seen. They smile at one another and quietly push and shove there way into the shala. If you are really lucky you get to become one with a kind man or lady who will put their mat down right underneath you before you can turn around. The room is full of love and sharing.


There are also the yogi's who love to give from their heart through out their practice. If you are fortunate enough to be next to a person with a really strong practice and a soul full of peace you can see them kindly roll their eyes at you if you get to close to their supreme performance. This morning I was next to a lady who was so beautiful and loving. She rolled her eyes at me not once but two times when I went over on her mat. I felt a warm glow radiate from her heart as she huffed and puffed and blew her own little house down. My friend Katie from Washington state had a similar experience with a loving and open yogi being considerate and pushy this morning. We talked about this for a few minutes this afternoon and decided that if it wasn't for these select number of enlightend yogi's that push their beautiful selves through the yoga shala we wouldn't be able to feel at home here. In reality if it weren't for beautiful people like Katie I think I would have felt strange being around so many competitive and ego driven people. Katie is a true yogi in every way. Love and light is what I have learned just from talking and being around her.


Saraswati taught class today after Sharat chanted with us the opening prayer. It was a great practice regardless of the ego around me. Saraswati tried to get me into Marichyasana A but lets face it...Not ready yet. It was so fun trying and she was really trying to tie me up like a knot. She is 68 years old and as strong as He-Man. No joke. She has a big heart and smiles at me warmly every time she sees me. It's kind of funny to see an older Indian woman walk around in a dress with flowers on it bending, picking up, and moving people twice her size around the yoga room.


Later in the day around 12pm there was a fundraiser at Sista Sharee's place to raise money for the homeless and orphaned children of Mysore. Here mother's will kill their children if it is a girl or if it is unexpected. There is a orphanage here that takes in the children that survive or are lucky enough to be dropped off in a cage right outside the orphanage. Sista Sharee is a lovely soul and was one of Pattabhi Jois' first female students from 25 years ago. She is a master of Kirtan and chanting and teaching music to the less fortunate. We chanted the Gayatri Mantra 108 times and watched a movie on the homeless children of India. It was stark. We will be chanting at her house every sunday at 12pm and trying to raise some money for the orphans and unfortunate of Mysore.


At 4:30 I went to the shala for lecture. The same rush that happens in the morning happens in the afternoon when the door opens. There is plenty of space in the afternoon because we are not using mat space we are just sitting. Sharath said so much and we were aloud to ask questions today. My thing that I connected with most was when he said..."To transform the body and the mind you must believe that transformation is possible....If you doubt transformation..the doubt will win...Trnasformation always happens if you believe. I know this man will be my teacher for a long time. I see love, wisdom, and heart in his smile. It is like falling in love but in a different way. It is hard to explain. It is more pure and more unconditional and with no expectation.


As I said before there are a lot of people here that are all show and ego. When the question portion came up in lecture today this was apparent. It felt as if most of the questions asked were from people who just wanted to shout their cock size. It was quite annoying. I almost felt embarrassed for some of them. One man in the front of the room was very aggressive in his questions. It was as if he was trying to prove Sharath wrong...he asked... Why does Baddha Padmasana always have the right leg first? Shrath said some things just are and there is no answer..The man with his huge ego told Sharath that he dissagred and felt there was not balance in this position because it was only done on one side of the body...Sharath told us a story....Once when his Grandfather Guruji and Krishnamacharya were traveling in norhtern India they came across a man doing pranayama with his left hand..(Indians use their left hand to wipe their privates)..Krishnamacharya asked this man..Why is it you use the wrong hand to do pranayama? The man replied..God gave me 2 hands and I will practice pranayama with which ever hand I choose..Krishnamacharya replied...God also gave you 2 holes for food to pass...with which one do you choose to eat... The Indian man in the front of the room was quiet. There were a few more questions from a guy in the middle of the room that were dissrespectful but writing about them is just igniting the guys ego so I'll drop it. The point is the people with all the ego are the same in front of a great teacher as well as the yoga student like Katie and me who are just trying to get it. They don't get it. They are all about themselves...So more power to them. I'm here to learn and absorb..not to know it all.



After lecture Andrew, Fiona, Susie, Vonya and I went to Green Leaf to eat Dosas. I had a masala dosa and lime soda. On the way home we stoped for a bit of ice cream. It was a long and though a little aggitating... wonderful day here in Mysore. I'm very fortunate and blessed.

Day Off

So today was the first day off from yoga in 6 days. We always have Saturday off from practice. I haven't slept more than 3 hours straight since I have arrived in India and nothing has changed in a week. I thought last night would be different but nothing has changed. I seem to have plenty of energy so I can't complain about the lack of sleep. Maybe the yoga is helping with my energy level. Today we went to breakfast at Anokhi Garden Cafe. I eat there most mornings because they have really good coffee and free internet. The owners are Marie and Flora who are two French ladies who opened the cafe about 6 months ago. They make everything form omlettes to poridge to grilled tomato basil sandwiches. They are very loving and hard working people with kind hearts.


Two days ago I ended up skipping practice due to a very sore back and neck. I was a little worried so I made an appointment with a shiotsu massage therapist who also has an extensive yoga background in the doshas and chakras. We began with a little interview about my diet and history. Shiotsu massage is done fully clothed and uses energy and pressure points. We figured that my dosha was Pitta-Kapha which actually is really good for ashtanga yoga. I have a high agni production and it is balanced with the coolness of kapha. Basically I'm fire and water so they balance out.


We began the massage with me lieing on my back and breathing. He evaluated my digestion and stomach area. Later I turned on my back and he began to move from head to toe down my body giving extra attention to my shoulders, spine and hips. At one point he asked if I had ever had a shoulder injury. I was shocked because I injured my shoulder when I was in 9th grade and have had stiffness in it ever since. He worked on my right shoulder for about 10 minutes. Then he asked if I had any problems with breath. Than I felt a sharp pain under my right shoulder blade....my first thought was holy fucking hell...Ahimsa dude.. He went on to tell me I had been walking around for at least a few months with a dislocated rib. He put it back in. My back immediatly became very relaxed as if he had cut a rubber band. I had the best practice I have ever had the very next day. I have another massage next week. It only cost $15 American dollars for an hour and a half massage. Need I say any more.


My teacher Sharath said he missed seeing me the next day and that I owed him 1000R for every day I missed. He looked so serious and than he smiled and laughed out loud. He is so funny and you can see he really has a pure soul. I saw him later in the day on the street with his son and he looked at me seriously and said...Jonathan..you are accumilating quite a large sum of interest on your 1000R....I can show you to an ATM....hehehehe( Indian head bobble)...He has such a light and funny soul..It is so great.


Tomorrow is Sunday so it is time to go to bed. You know the yogi's around here from the regular back packers because we are all in bed by 9pm on Saturday night. The first led class starts at 4am and the second led is at 6am. Coffee is a beautiful thing when you are getting up that early. Good Nite Mysore.

The Reality of Food

The food in Mysore is so different from the food in America. Here there is so much intention put into even the smallest snack or cup of chai. The Indian people have a pure respect for their food. There are no preservatives or added color in the food prepared here. You can find Chinese, traditional Indian, French, Twainese ,and even Pizza Hut. Most everything is vegeterian but with the spices and color and freshness there is no need to eat meat here. More than half of the country is going hungry so there is little waste and all food is appreciated.


The experience that really opened my eyes was tonights dinner. In Mysore there are little cafes that are really out of peoples homes. They usually have internet and the head of the house is a good cook so they will open for a few hours in the evening or morning and prepare food for yoga students at a low price. Usually around 50r to 100r which is about a dollar or two you can get a huge dinner or even an all you can eat home stye buffet. Tonight there was a group of us that went to Ricshi's cafe right up the street. We all ordered a set menu that was 100r. We got a mixture of Dosas, dal, cucumber and tomato salad, and a fruit salad. Of course none of us were thinking so we kept asking for refills on dishes as we were cleaning our plates. As we were leaving we asked the lady of the house the name of the curried dish that was served. She told us it was not the ususal dinner to be served but we were eating so much they ran out of food and they gave us what they had saved for their dinner. I felt so bad and selfish. We didn't really eat that much in our standards but we ate more than we should. We as Westerners are spoiled and self centered. The point is we always want more. When is enough actually enough. She smiled and told us it was not a big deal they had bread for their dinner. The begged us to come back and even offered us a cooking class on Saturday. They Indian people are true loving people and we have a lot to learn from them. I am trully humbled.


On my way to shala every morning I pass a homeless guy who sleeps on the side of the road. He is just another to add to the number of hungry homeless people in India. For some reason my heart aches when I see him. His clothes are dirty and he is rail thin and eyes are yellow. His lips are usually so chapped and dry they are white and cracked. He is probably no older than 15 of 16 years of age. He is actually one of the only street people that doesn't beg for money or food. I have made a point to take him toast from my breakfast or buy him a coconut on my way home each day. Have you ever just wanted to take someone home and feed them and give them a chance at life. I want to give him a way to go to school or furnish him with a roof to sleep under, medical care, a job, or let him know someone thinks about him. All I can do is give him a God damned coconut or a piece of toast. The thing is I'm going to leave and than this guy is back to being just part of the forgetable homeless and hungry untouchable class of India. He might even be dead before he reaches 20. He has probably never even had a piece of cake let alone a birthday cake. He has a heart though. He has a mom, a dad, maybe a sister or brother but where are they. He sleeps alone and is homeless and hungry in Gokulom, 3rd stage , Mysore, India.

So the food is great here but the reality is that as you are stuffing your face with someone elses meal and the guy outside your window is starving to death it makes your dinner go down with bitter force. The lesson I have learned is you can enjoy your food but don't take it for granted. For once in your life actually sit down and taste what you are eating. Make your dinner with love and intention. Share a coffee or snack with someone who is less fortunate than you. Someone else in the world is wishing they had half of the Chinese lunch you boxed up today. Are you still going to throw it away because you didn't want left overs. Someone in India will die tonight because of hunger. Eat that for dessert.

How it works

Every morning I get up and go straight to the yoga shala. On Monday through Thursday we get to the shala around 6am for Mysore style practice. On Friday and Sunday we have a led practice. On Friday and Sunday to get a good place we have to get to the shala at 5am. We start practice around 6am. There is a huge room that holds a lot of people and than if you get there later you have to practice in the lobby which is off to the side.


A led practice is held the day before your day off which is Saturday and new moon and full moon days and the day after your day off. We all stand in samasthitih and Sharath leads us in the opening prayer in call and response. Than he guides us through the primary sequence counting and cuing us into each position in sanskrit. When you can not go any longer in the sequence he will come over and tap you and tell you to sit until finishing sequence or tell you to finish in the next room.


Mysore style practice is a self study. We all get there at a certain time. Some people are beginning at 4am some as late as 7:30 am. You walk into the lobby and as a space opens up Sharath or Saraswati (his mother) calls next and the next person in line goes in to begin their practice. It is very organized. You begin your sequence and go until you don't know any more. He will come up to you and tell you to stop here or give you another posture in the sequence. He and Saraswati also walk around and adjust you in certain positions. Eventually you work your way through primary series and on up over many years.


On my first day Sharath asked my name and for some reason he likes to talk to me every class. Some people here have said he is cold and aloof but I haven't seen that. He always makes eye contact with me and smiles really big. A few times he has placed his hand on my shoulder and smiled at me. I must have a habit of smiling in up dog because some times I come into up dog and him and Saraswati are just looking at me with a big grin on their face. This place makes me so happy I can't help but smile. My body aches but my soul is beaming from all directions.


Today Saraswati asked about my teacher at home Johnna Smith. I had finished my practice and was sitting and watching and she came over to me and said....Johnna Smithy..how is she?...Is she coming back soon....I smiled and said she is working on it...saraswati smiled back and said good..and I bowed to her and she bowed back..


When you are done practicing you can watch if there is no one sitting waiting for a place. When you leave the room you stop at the door and bow to your teachers Saraswati and R.Sharath. I know in my heart that R. Sharath will be my teacher for a long long time if not for the rest of my life. I have opened up so much in the last 4 days. It is amazing.


One day Sharath's son came into the room when we were practicing and started following her daddy around. He kept looking at all the students practicing and would point to someone in random and yell....you..Finish!!!.. Everyone left in the room was laughing so hard. It was so funny. They finally took him out side and got him a coconut. He was quiet for a while...Than when I was leaving he was looking at Susie yelling Finish...You Finish!!!...Susie was in up dog cracking up. It was so funny. Sharath and Saraswati just smiled so big. This place is true and pure love. There is no bullshit in Mysore. I love it here.

Practice makes.....

Yesterday we registered at the shala and this morning we practiced for the first time. On Friday and Sunday our practice is led. Led practice is when the teacher calls out the commands and even tells us when to breathe. We were up at 4:30am and on the way to the shala in a rickshaw by 5am. You have to get there early because the students flood in when the doors open and to get a place in the big room you have to be quick. By the time I found a place a lady was putting her mat down underneath me. I found another place by the door and then a minute later R. Sharath was asking my name and moving me to the front of the class. I didn't even think I just did what he said. They say he likes new students because we are not conditioned in our bad habits. It is intence and guru walks around and adjusts students when needed. His mother Saraswati Pattabhi's daughter who is well in her 60's also walks around and helps guide you into positions. I was adjusted twice today by Sharath and once by Saraswati. They are loving but firm and you feel every bone and muscle in your body as they contort you into the position.


I have met a small group of yoga students that I resonate with. We have become like family in just a few days. Vonya is Sweedish and so funny. She is a free spirit and full of love. Katie is a Yoga teacher from Spokane, Wa and has already helped me in my practice by adjusting different asanas in our spare time. Makato is a Japanese guy who is very quiet and kind just follows us around like a quiet puppy. Jennifer is a New Yorker who just flew to Mysore by her self 2 months ago and is staying until she feels like leaving. She is also very funny and sincere. She serves tables for free food at cafe Anoki where there is great breakfast, free wifi, and an out side garden where we dine. Lastly there is Elaine who is from Latavia and is staying for a month on vacation just to further her practice. She is very nurturing. We all practice and eat and hang out together. It is like a very close knit family.


Today in the afternoon we went to the big market in Mysore city and shopped for malas and incense and oils. I love it there. There is so many people and so much color. You feel like you are walking in a movie. Cows are everywhere. They roam through the markets and the merchants feed them fruit and veggies as they pass. They are friendly but dirty so we don't touch them. They will walk right up to you and just stare at you as if they want you to scratch them on the head. There was a festival yesterday and the local people rubbed turmeric into their coats to make them yellow and painted their horns blue and gold. We shopped and walked the market for a few hours and then went back to Gokulam to meet Sista Sharee.


Sista Sharee is an older black woman who is American but has been living in Mysore for over 25 years. She was a student of Guruji and is staying at Saraswati's house down from the shala. We were invited by Katie to go and have tea with her and visit. We sat and talked about Guruji and the history of the shala for a few hours. She is so kind and knows so much about the lineage. We are going to her house on Sunday for lunch to chant 108 Gayatri mantra's and watch the movie Siddhartha. She is organizing a charity to raise money for the orphans in Mysore. There are so many teachers here and so much to learn.


At 4:30 we went to the shala for our Sunday lecture. R. Sharat talked about the history of his Grandfather Guruji and what yoga was to him. We all listened as to not miss a word of what he was saying. It was a room filled with about 300 students. It was so perfect. No questions this week.  Next week we are allowed to ask questions.  Every time R. Sharath would speak his Grandfather's name his face would light up and he would smile. It was so lovely and peaceful.
 

After lecture my yoga family and I went to eat at Anu's cafe for the buffet. We sat and talked and laughed and ate the best vegetarian food ever. Than I was off to bed so i could get up at 5am to practice. This place is perfect.

Bangalore to Mysore

Today was the first day in India. We got into Bangalore at 2:30 am on Friday. The first thing we noticed was the stray dogs just hanging around right out side the baggage claim. It was around 6o F degrees and a little humid. In India you don't flag down a taxi at the airport there is a guy to do all that for you. You just go and pay him and he takes care of the rest. You do however tip the guy who takes care of your bags...I didn't do this because I didn't know...would explain the look I got when I shut the door in his face. I just thought he was just really attached to us.


We arrived at a small dirty hotel in Bangalore I refer to as Satan's ass around 3:30am. We checked in and were carried to our room and again I didn't tip the bag guy. I read somewhere not to tip. I was told later you tip the bag guys...my bad. We were informed not to use the water until 6am and there would be no hot water until then as well. I had to have a shower so I chattered my way through a cold sprinkle. I went to check the beds and furniture for bed bugs and found a used condom under my mattress. Susie laughed and I cried and some guy before us got lucky. We were so tired we just curled up and fell asleep. We had been up at this point for over 37 hours and on a plane for 29 hours. We woke at 8am and were out of there and on our way to Mysore by 10am.


First things first. We had to get out of Bangalore. We got a taxi to Mysore for about 2400R which is about $46 which is not bad considering it is a 2 and half hour ride. We were twisting through the streets of Bangalore towards Mysore through crowds of people, stray dogs and cattle..no joke. We stoped at a traffic light and I looked at Susie and we just laughed. My conclusion was why are there even lines painted on the roads...They really don't use them. It is scary at first and then you realize no one is crashing so there must be some order to the chaos. We stopped at another light and all of a sudden there were kids and young ladies with their hands in the window asking for money. You have to pretend they are not there. You can't smack at them or even tell them to go away. They are very persistant. You just hold on to your pockets and ignore their advances. The older ones go away but the kids grab on to your arms and hair and clothes. In the next few minutes we were out of Bangalore and on our way to Mysore.


The cattle, stray dogs, and monkeys are everywhere. You see them on sidewalks, in pastures, crossing the street. It is odd how they just hang out among the locals. We saw a downed cow with open wounds just laying in the street and old dogs who can barely walk just splayed out in the middle of the side walk and street. The cars and rickshaws just go around them. On the buildings you see monkeys playing and goofing around swinging from one tree or ledge to another. After you get out of Bangalore it is so peaceful. You see temples to Ganesh and Krishna the whole way.
 

We arrived at Mysore and right away I felt a peace in my chest. We checked into out hotel and were off to find Shiva who is a guy in charge of yoga students provisions in front of the Pattabhi Jois shala where we will be practicing. He found us a place to stay for our whole stay in Mysore. It is a brand new 2 bedroom flat with a kitchen, shower, living room and running hot water for only 12,000R a month. I still ask myself what have I done to have such good luck. We are very fortunate.

For dinner we went to Anu's Internet cafe for a vegetarian buffet. It was the best Indian food I have ever eaten. There isn't the salt and fat used here like in the states and everything is so fresh. The markets are everywhere and the vegetables and fruits are plentiful. I had shredded carrots, balsamati rice, dal, cucumber and tomato salad, and roasted acorn squash. It was a perfect meal and all you could eat for 150R (around $3). We met a few yogi's and talked till around 6pm. By 7pm I was asleep in the hotel. Tomorrow is another day and I was beat.




I never want to leave here. It is the real world here in India. You have the really wealthy and the really poor and the in between. It is poverty that you will never see anywhere else but inner peace as well. What surrounds you here is life and death..... saddness and joy. I have never seen a culture so real and sincere. My experience here has taken my blinders off and ripped a hole in the plastic that has covered me for so long. Vande gurunam to my teacher India. My eyes are beginning to open. Mysore is not only my love... Mysore is my heart.